finally, my recommendations for the area
At the Cantina del Castello in Sillavengo, I ate all of this. really.
this osteria was recommended by the concierge at la palma, who was right, it was very particular. i had spaghetti with bottarga (fish roe cured whole (ie an ovary) and grated) and pomodorini, followed by conger eel in lemon leaves with a tomato olive sauce. for dessert, pears poached in barolo.
we followed a note in the slow food osteria d'italia guide to this cheese shop, where the proprietress overwhelmed us with samples of excellent local cheeses. i asked for aged cheeses, piquant, typical of the region and we were offered an unbelievable variety, came away with several bags, wine, a jar of fig preserves... she threw an extra cheese of their own production, a mild young toma, in a bag as a gift. worth a stop in intra.
apropos slow food, the guide to osterie d'italia was indispensible. armed with this book, we couldn't miss.
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